Principles for Winter Camping or a “Van for all Seasons”

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a. No grey water tanks, pipes, batteries, etc.

b. It helps reduce weight (overall and FWD) and off-road clearances.

a. Fresh Water Tank with leak proof plumbing. No continuous water pressure in the pipes to freeze.

b. Grey Water Tanks under kitchen sink (2 x 4 gallon tanks = easy to dump)

c. Toilet Water Tank inside toilet.

d. Lithium Batteries have a built in heater.

a. Floors – R5 XPS, MDO Plywood, Sheet Vinyl (unglued)

b. Walls – R7 to R14, Polyiso, Thinsulite, (1 to 2 inches thick)

c. Ceiling – R10 Polyiso (1.5 inches thick)

d. Main Pillars – Neoprene foam, covered by 4-way stretch fabric

a. Slider Windows (glass, sturdy, long lasting, less expensive)

b. 1.5 Trim Ring with a Window Casing to fir out to the depth of Wall Panels

c. Insulated Window Covers R6

a. Must be reliable and have an output of at least 9,000 BTU

b. Externally Vented (a furnace rather than a heater)

b. Works at all elevations (most gasoline and diesel heaters don't work well at elevation)

c. Heating system should be designed with hot and cold air circulation through the van

a. Hang Wool blankets with snaps over the cab and rear door

a. Keep at least 50% of the weight on the front wheels, after the build is done

b. Winter only tires like Nokian Hakkapelitta

c. All Season tires like Falken Wildpeak

d. Tire chains or options like Snow Socks.

a. The best option is to not park it in the winter. Drive it regularly as an extra vehicle.

Depending on your situation and temperatures you will likely need to do the following:

b. Draining the water system.

c. Bringing the battery inside if it gets below 0 degrees F

d. Keeping the snow off the solar panels to charge the electrical system or shut it off.

It's important for you to plan for where you're going to put wet snow gear and how you're going to dry them out: snow boots, wet outdoor clothes, skis, snowboards, etc.

Here is a YouTube video I did talking about these same principles.