Start Simple, Build Smart
Everyone is an inexperienced van owner when they buy their first van. The goal isn’t to avoid every mistake—that’s impossible—but to avoid the expensive, complicated, and unnecessary ones.
A lot of people jump into van builds by copying what they see on YouTube or social media. The problem? Not everything that looks impressive is practical, and not everything that’s popular is wise. There’s a surprising amount of bad advice out there—often from people with more confidence than experience.
If you don’t come from a background in building, fabrication, or carpentry, it’s easy to waste time, money, and energy chasing ideas that don’t actually improve your van—or your experience.
This Myth Busters list exists to cut through that noise. It brings together real-world experience to:
• Challenge common assumptions
• Expose overbuilt or unnecessary features
• Highlight simpler, proven alternatives
Think of it as a filter—helping you separate what looks good online from what actually works in real life.
This list originated from a discussion on the ProMaster Forum where we collected a number of Myths and Best Practices from experienced van builders. All of these principles are taken into account when CampMaker vans are being built.
Myth: Sheet-foam insulation (Polyiso, XPS, etc.) under a plywood floor will get crushed and fail.
BEST PRACTICE: This concern is widely overstated. Rigid foam boards are specifically engineered with known compressive strength ratings (pounds per square inch). When you calculate the actual load over the floor’s surface area, the resulting compression is non-existent. In practical terms, a properly installed foam + plywood floor system distributes weight so effectively that crushing simply doesn’t occur under normal van loads (people, cabinets, gear).
Meanwhile, avoiding foam in favor of framed subfloors introduces real downsides:
Bottom line:
Rigid foam under a continuous plywood floor is a simple, proven, and high-performing approach. The tiny amount of compression is insignificant compared to the very real problems created by overbuilt floor framing systems.
MYTH:
The van floor valleys (low ribs) must be filled before installing insulation and sub-flooring.
BEST PRACTICE: Filling the floor valleys is not recommended—and instead it’s better to leave them empty. If the floor is designed properly (rigid foam + plywood), the structure spans the ribs effectively without needing to level every low spot. Leaving the valleys open can actually be beneficial, allowing any incidental moisture to move and drain—especially if the van is slightly nose-up so water can exit toward the rear.
Trying to fill valleys often adds unnecessary complexity and can create unintended problems:
Bottom line:
A simple system—foam board over the ribs, plywood on top, valleys left open—is effective, durable, and avoids the moisture and complexity issues of "filling the valleys.
Myth: Framing out the walls and ceiling with a lot of wood is necessary. Best Practices: Extensive framing can reduce valuable interior space. Finish walls/paneling and cabinets can be attached directly to the van's ribs and channels. Select finish wall materials flexible enough to conform to the slight wall and ceiling curves. Without framing, you would attach your shiplap directly to the van's metal ribs, channels, and pillars the same way you were going to attach the framing, with sheet metal screws, or bolts and rivnuts, or something similar. Minimal framing also helps keep the overall weight of the van lower.
MYTH: You need to level the van before starting the conversion.
BEST PRACTICE: Leveling the van at the start is not recommended. Unlike a house, a van is not a fixed structure. Its stance will change throughout the build as weight is added (flooring, cabinets, water, gear), and it will continue to vary depending on how it’s loaded and where it’s parked.
Instead, treat the van’s existing floor as your reference plane and build everything square and true to that:
This ensures that everything fits and functions properly relative to the van itself, which is what actually matters.
On suspension and rake: Avoid trying to “fix” the factory rake (rear sitting higher than the front) before the build:
Real-world use matters: Even if you perfectly level the van during the build, it will only be level on perfectly level ground—which is rare in actual camping scenarios.
Bottom line: Build square to the van—not to an imagined level. Let the final weight settle first before making any suspension adjustments.
MYTH: Insulating the van floor is unnecessary and doesn’t significantly reduce heat loss.
BEST PRACTICE: Floor insulation matters more than most people think—especially in a well-insulated van. Heat doesn’t just escape through walls and ceilings; it also moves through the floor by conduction into the cold metal and the air beneath the vehicle. When the rest of the van is insulated well, the floor becomes one of the largest remaining paths for heat loss.
A simple way to think about it: If you insulate the walls and ceiling but leave the floor uninsulated, total heat loss can increase by around 40% compared to a fully insulated envelope. That’s a major hit to comfort and efficiency.
Why this matters in real use:
What works well:
Bottom line: Skipping floor insulation undermines the rest of your insulation system. A simple foam + plywood floor dramatically improves comfort and reduces overall heat loss with very little added complexity.
MYTH: You need a roof rack to mount solar panels on a van.
BEST PRACTICE: A roof rack is optional—not required—for solar. Many van builds successfully mount panels directly to the roof using simple, proven methods:
When done correctly, 3M VHB (Very High Bond) tape creates an industrial-strength connection used in automotive and commercial applications. With proper surface prep (cleaning, priming if needed) and installation within recommended temperature ranges, it has a strong track record in van builds.
Why skip the roof rack?
When a roof rack does make sense:
Bottom line: You may want a roof rack for flexibility—but you don’t need one for solar. Direct-mount solutions are simpler, lighter, and widely proven when installed properly.
MYTH: You need full overlanding gear (roof rack, side ladder, rear boxes, lift kit, roof deck) for a legitimate van conversion.
BEST PRACTICE: A camper van is not a Jeep—and building it like one often creates more problems than it solves. While it’s appealing to outfit a van with aggressive “overland” accessories, most van travel happens on paved roads, gravel, and mild forest service routes. A simpler, lighter build is usually better.
On lift kits: Be cautious with lifts beyond ~1–1.5 inches, especially on front-wheel-drive vans like the Ram ProMaster:
What actually matters more than gear:
The reality check: Vans are capable of reaching many beautiful, remote places - but they are still a van. Overbuilding for extreme terrain results in:
Bottom line: You don’t need to “overland” your van to have meaningful adventures. Build for how you’ll actually travel, not for edge-case scenarios. A simple, well-thought-out van will go more places—and with fewer problems—than an overbuilt one.
Myth: Van builders need a second alternator to provide enough power for your electrical system. Best Practices: Nearly all van builders are happy with just one alternator.
Myth: You will finish your van completely and never change anything ever. Best Practices: This myth is the granddaddy myth of them all. Most DIY van builders continue to refine their creation for many years.
Myth: Blind Nuts (plus-nuts and rivnuts) are essential for a van build. Best Practices: They can be helpful for some applications, but they are not essential. It is best if you design so the force will operate in “Shear” rather than “tension” or commonly referred to as “pull out” that fastener is much much stronger.
MYTH: You need to install a moisture (vapor) barrier on the interior surfaces of your van build.
BEST PRACTICE: Vans are not houses—and treating them like one can create moisture problems instead of preventing them. Your van already has a built-in vapor barrier: the exterior sheet metal skin. Adding another interior vapor barrier (plastic sheeting, foil layers, etc.) creates a double vapor barrier system with insulation trapped in between.
That’s risky because:
This can lead to:
How insulation type affects this:
A better approach:
Bottom line: In a van, managing moisture is about allowing drying and controlling airflow, not trying to perfectly block vapor. Adding an interior vapor barrier often does more harm than good—especially with permeable insulation systems.
Myth: Never drill any holes in the van. Best Practices: It is helpful to avoid drilling more holes than necessary in the van, but any competent van builder needs to learn how to create and waterproof any holes that are made. It is scary to drill or cut through the van metal, but many holes and openings are essential for a functional and safe van build.
MYTH: All propane heaters add moisture to the inside of your van.
BEST PRACTICE: All combustion produces moisture—but where that moisture ends up depends on the heater design. When propane (or any fossil fuel) burns, it creates water vapor as a byproduct. The key distinction is:
This is likely where the myth comes from—people experience condensation with unvented heaters and assume all propane heat behaves the same way.
Why this matters:
What to use instead:
Both options keep combustion—and its moisture—outside the living space.
Bottom line: It’s not the fuel type that determines moisture—it’s whether the heater is vented or unvented. Choose a vented system to stay warm without adding humidity to your van.
MYTH: Tankless water heaters are a practical solution for camper vans.
BEST PRACTICE: Tankless water heaters are rarely practical in vans due to venting needs, water usage, and real-world usability. Most propane tankless units require external venting, which is why they’re often mounted on a rear door or used only when the door is open. This typically limits them to outdoor shower setups.
The practical challenges:
What tends to work better:
Reality check: An outdoor shower sounds great in theory, but for most van users it ends up being used far less often than expected.
Bottom line: Tankless water heaters can work in very specific use cases, but for most van builds they are inefficient, water-hungry, and underutilized. Simpler systems usually deliver better real-world results.
MYTH: You should insulate the areas under the black plastic triangles along the sides of the van floor.
BEST PRACTICE: Do not insulate inside the rocker panels. Those black plastic triangles cover access points to the rocker panels, which are designed to manage and drain moisture. Water can enter these through:
The factory design assumes that water will get in—and provides a way for it to drain and dry out.
Filling these with insulation creates problems:
A helpful analogy is window flashing on a house:
Important detail: Most of the rocker panel sits below the floor level, so insulating inside them provides little to no thermal benefit anyway.
What to do instead:
Bottom line: Rocker panels are drainage systems, not insulation cavities. Keeping them clear allows your van to shed and dry moisture properly, which is far more important than any negligible insulation gain.
Myth: There is only one truth in converting vans. Best Practices: Different people have different needs, and what is sensible for one person's needs is overkill for another, and insufficient for a third. So despite what so many people like to claim, there is no ULTIMATE VAN CONVERSION. We each have a unique combination of priorities, budget, and skills.
MYTH: You need to spend a lot of money and build a highly complex camper van to have a great experience.
BEST PRACTICE: Simplicity often leads to better travel, lower costs, and fewer headaches.
A van that meets your basic needs—comfortable bed, functional kitchen, reliable power, and storage—allows you to enjoy nature and travel freely.
Building an elaborate, high-tech van is fine if you enjoy the design and creation process, but it comes with trade-offs:
Bottom line: Focus on function over form. A simple, well-thought-out van is often more practical, more reliable, and just as enjoyable as a fully tricked-out build. This link has a lot of good suggestions about How to Build a Quality Camper Van on a Budget.
MYTH: You don’t need to worry much about how cabinets or gear are anchored in a van build.
BEST PRACTICE: Properly securing everything is critical for safety. Even relatively light items can become extremely dangerous in a crash. For example:
A vivid example:
Best practices for securing gear:
Bottom line: Safety isn’t optional. Secure everything that could become a projectile—especially cabinets and heavy gear—before you even finish your build.
Myth: A certified electrician knows how to build your electrical system. Best Practices: If they don’t have a lot of experience with 12-volt van systems already, it probably isn't a good idea to have a commercial or residential electrician wire your van. One excellent source for recreational vehicle electrical design is Explorist Life.
Myth: It is important to cover more than 50% of the van walls with sound deadening material. Best Practices: A small (8" x 8"?) section is all that is necessary on most walls, if you plan to insulate your van. Insulation with foam board basically eliminates the need for sound deadening material, compared to Thinsulate or Wool, which will benefit from small amounts of sound deadening on the big flat panels. Some sound deadening is helpful in strategic places such as around the wheel wells and under the front seats.
MYTH: A built-in shower is essential for a camper van.
BEST PRACTICE: For many van travelers, a full shower is more burden than benefit.
Why it often doesn’t make sense:
Practical alternatives:
Bottom line: A built-in shower is optional. Many van lifers get by just fine with simpler, lighter, and more flexible solutions that save space, weight, and hassle.
MYTH: It’s not important to track the weight of your van build.
BEST PRACTICE: Treat weight as a limited resource from the start.
Why it matters:
Ignoring weight adds up quickly. Heavy cabinets, oversized batteries, large water tanks, and “nice-to-have” features can push—or exceed—the van’s payload capacity, often 4,000 lbs or less.
Consequences of excess weight:
A smarter approach:
Bottom line: Overweight vans are less efficient, less capable, and less safe. Just because your van can carry 4,000 lbs doesn’t mean you should. Proper weight management keeps your build functional, safe, and flexible.